Martin and Terry nipped up to Pumori Camp 1 (5,700m) today for some further altitude training given a brief weather window which presented itself. They are now stuck back at BC again with more bad weather, where they are likely to remain until Monday at least.
Himex now often chooses Pumori for acclimatisation trips ahead of an Everest summit due to climbing teams being able to easily access the comfort of Everest BC, and for the spectacular views which the climb affords of Tibet, Nepal and Everest herself. The traditional Everest basecamp is a crowded place and sits on active ice which moves and melts around the tents during the course of the expedition. Himex sets up camp slightly further down the valley and closer to Pumori where there is more sun and the ice does not shift – making for a much more comfortable experience and a place to call home.
When the AGS team is able to have another crack at getting higher on Pumori (we hope early next week) - the going will get tough.
From Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,200m) the climbing gets increasingly technical with steep and exposed ridges as well as some ice walls with fixed ropes.
From Camp 2 the climb involves steep ice climbing until Camp 3 is reached at 6,850m.
Prior to the massive earthquake in 2015 which ravaged the Everest Base Camp region, this route was made dangerous by massive overhanging seracs towering above the shoulder between Camps 2 and 3, resulting in this being an unsafe acclimatisation peak. Those seracs have now collapsed, resulting in a much safer route.
From Camp 3 the team will attempt to reach the summit - again using the fixed ropes to navigate the many crevasses and ice walls en route - before summiting and returning to Camp 3 for the night. From there they descend to Everest Base Camp the following morning.
The view from Pumori.